Understanding the distinction between lab-grown diamonds and natural diamonds is crucial to making an informed decision. In this article, we will explore the differences, similarities, and important factors to consider by examining their chemical, physical, structural properties along with the environmental and sustainable impacts.
What is a diamond:
According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the definition of a diamond is “a mineral consisting essentially of pure carbon crystallised in the isometric system”.
Previously, the FTC defined a diamond as a “natural” mineral; this word has been removed from the FTC’s definition of a diamond. The FTC has also recommended the word “synthetic” is not an accurate descriptor, this is because lab grown diamonds are not synthesised. Lab grown diamonds are grown by combining carbon atoms in a crystal lattice, just as they are created in nature.
What is a lab diamond?
Lab grown diamond refers to a diamond created in a laboratory made from pure carbon, arranged in a crystal structure known as an isometric system. Lab diamonds are produced by either High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) or Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD).
What is a naturally formed diamond?
A naturally formed diamond is a gemstone made of pure carbon created in the earth over hundreds of years from high pressure and temperature. Naturally formed diamonds can be found in a range of places and countries, such as kimberlites, alluvial deposits and Russia, Australia, Botswana, South Africa etc.
What is the chemical composition of a lab and natural diamond?
Both lab-grown and natural diamonds are made of pure carbon, arranged in an isometric crystal structure, making them the hardest naturally occurring substance known. The chemical composition of natural and lab diamonds is the same. Diamonds are typically 99.95% carbon with the other 0.05% made up from trace elements.
Both lab and natural diamonds possess the same mohs rating of 10. Mohs is the measure of hardness determined by its resistance to scratching.
Both lab-grown and natural diamonds are graded to the same standards and criteria, ensuring consumers can assess quality based on an objective criteria. There are however characteristics present in lab diamonds from poor manufacturing such as blues/greys/browns/phosphorescence that are not graded on which influences how the diamond will look. To read more
How to tell the difference between a lab diamond and a natural?
Lab-grown diamonds have a range of ‘markers’ that identify it as having been created in a lab. For example, HPHT lab grown diamonds grow in a cuboctahedron shape and have 14 growth directions, CVD lab grown diamonds have a cubic shape and only grow in one direction. Naturally formed diamonds have 8 growth directions.
HPHT diamonds tend to have colour zoning/uneven colour distribution due to how the elements concentrate as the crystal forms.
CVD diamonds tend to have striations which look like visible parallel lines or growth lines, the intensity and depends on the way the diamond has been grown.
All diamonds that have been graded will be laser inscribed along their girdle with information as to whether they are a lab grown diamond or naturally formed diamond. Allowing anyone to look up the certification number and check the report. Most jewellers cannot distinguish a lab diamond from a mined diamond without specialized equipment.
Because of the ‘markers’ if diamond manufacturers were to falsely inscribe a lab diamond with a natural diamond number, it would be able to be identified.
Lab-grown diamond cost vs natural
Lab diamonds cost less than natural diamonds. This is because lab diamonds do not have a supply restriction and can be manufactured in a matter of weeks. Natural diamonds however, must be mined from the earth in a variety of ways. This takes huge capital investment and de beers has been able to manage a monopoly supply on natural diamonds, dictating the price.
Energy/sustainability of lab-grown diamonds vs natural
Natural diamonds require huge energy, resources and capital investment to mine. Natural diamonds must be mined and sorted by machines and people. There are a range of economic and environmental benefits and impacts that we do not have access to the current and unbiased information to accurately and fairly argue these points, however, as a consumer, these are some things you may want to consider.
Some of the following arguments made:
- Natural diamond provide jobs and help build the economy and wealth of those around the mines, providing opportunity they otherwise wouldn’t have
- Natural diamonds exploit vulnerable people, there is a lack of healthy and safety negatively affecting those working in the mines
- Natural diamond mining damages the environment from contaminating soil, carbon emissions, deforestation, water contamination and more. Leaving those economically worse off
- Supporting ethical natural mining benefits communities, economies and people
- If there is still demand for natural diamonds, unethical practices will continue
There has been many claims and research made available stating lab diamonds are sustainable, clean, green and what you should choose to do your bit for the environment however, these claims are irresponsible and fail to consider the following:
- The waste management of the factory
- How the factory is generating the huge amounts of power required - usually from coal/oil
- Growing lab diamonds requires metals and elements that are mined for (CVD growing uses methane which is typically sourced from mining fossil fuels)
- Entire supply chain
- Lab diamonds don’t have the same economic benefit to communities, but is this offset by the environmental damage caused by natural diamond mining?
- Did the emissions research consider diamond type, size and machine used? The different reactors have different energy efficiencies, also the larger the carat the more energy required
- There is little publicly available data
- The publicly available data misrepresents/ construes the data for example: CO2 data on lab diamonds typically only includes the production of the diamond in either a CVD or HPHT reactor, it fails to include the CO2 output on cutting, polishing, manufacturing into jewellery, shipping, the entire end to end process.
It’s irresponsible to report only on the information and data that supports a certain agenda or so that a business can be perceived as “clean and green”. It’s also unethical to influence purchasing decisions without accurately representing the entire argument.
Generic comparisons between natural and lab diamonds can not be made in terms of energy and sustainability without more publicly available data that has not been funded by influencing agendas.
Common misconceptions between natural and lab diamonds
Jewellers have been known to market “natural diamonds will hold their value better than lab diamonds”. This is incorrect, whether it’s a lab-grown diamond or a natural diamond, they do not hold their resale value. If you’re purchasing a diamond for its resale value, you might want to consider a different type of investment. A diamond is purchased with the intent to never sell, but to eventually pass on to family as an heirloom.
Lab diamonds are flawless:
No, lab diamonds are not flawless, with the increase in demand, we have seen cost cutting measures and shortcuts in the way lab diamonds have been manufactured. Defective, poor-quality lab diamonds have entered the market. Near perfect diamonds can be created, it is possible, but manufacturers are incentivised to produce more, faster, cheaper and instead use other elements and methods to help mitigate the side effects of rushing the process. It’s essential your jeweller is inspecting your diamond in person as a lot of these defects are not reported on in the grading report.
How to choose between lab and natural
Choosing between a lab and natural diamond is up to you, it is entirely dependent on what you prefer. To help make this decision, you can ask yourself the following questions
- What’s important to you?
- Do you prefer a natural diamond? Or a lab diamond?
- Do you want a larger carat or smaller carat?
- Do you want a higher clarity and colour?
- What is your budget?
At Henry Francis, we believe the choice is yours, nobody should influence or take the decision from you. There is no right or wrong answer, it’s what you prefer.
